Itchy Feet - Welcome!: May 2013

Date: April 2013

Day 1:

Manila, the capital of the Philippines, is not exactly known to be a tourist gem, so when I tell people I am going there, most of them, including my Filipino friends, simply ask: why?

It was once known as "The Pearl of the Orient", the "Paris of Asia", for it's beautiful Spanish architecture and cobblestone streets. But it was significantly damaged during the WWII Battle for Manila, which took a month and claimed 100,000 civilian lives. Today Manila is a sum of 17 different cities and municipalities, each with it's own character. The population is anywhere between 11 to 20 million, depending on how you count. In any case, it's big.

We arrive from Paris via Amsterdam and Taipei. After a long and quite bumpy ride we land at 6 pm. The weather looks grey and stormy. Oh no. After a horrible spring in Paris we really need some sunshine.

We arranged for pickup by the hotel and are directed to a row of hotel lounges just outside the terminal. The Hyatt lounge seems like it has seen better days, but it's clean and comfortable. Most importantly it's air-conditioned, which is great considering that even at this time of the day it's more than 30 C (86 F) and humid outside.

By the time we are driving to the hotel it's completely dark. I have to admit that my first impression of Manila is much better than I expected. I heard about the horrible traffic jams, but right now the traffic is not bad at all. We are driving on the nice, modern, wide and well-lit Roxas Boulevard by the waterfront, the brainchild of Chicago's master planner Daniel Burnham. It's a beautiful boulevard, with lots of decorative lighting, even with a colorfully lit huge Ferris wheel. Not at all what I expected.

American influence on commerce is clearly visible. We pass a Dunkin Donuts, a McDonalds, a KFC and a whole bunch of 7 Elevens. Of course there is also Jollibee, the hugely popular Filipino fast food chain.

What really makes me feel like I am in Manila are the scores of jeepneys on the road. They are the iconic little "buses" so common on the city's streets (more about the jeepneys later).

Jeepney, Manila

We check into our hotel, the Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila, in a part of town called Malate. Even though it's only 2:30 pm Paris time (8:30 pm in Manila), after a quick bite in the business lounge I am ready to crash.

Malate street from the window of the Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila

Day 2:

We force ourselves to wake up at 9 am, which is difficult with the jetlag. After breakfast it's up to the business lounge to enjoy the beautiful view of Manila Bay and to wait while a leak in our room is fixed. Then, after a dip in the hotel pool and quick lunch, we set out for our first sightseeing tour.

View of Manila Bay from the Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila

View of Roxas Boulevard from the Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila

View of Malate from the Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila

We genuinely dislike organized tours, but we don't feel that we could manage driving around the city ourselves (at least not without getting lost), so we hire a guide/driver, and we set out at 1 pm.

The guide is not exactly my favorite. He talks so much and so loud that soon I have a headache. He also tries to cut corners with the tour and talks a lot about how little money he makes, which after a while gets quite annoying. But otherwise he is very nice and seems to be quite knowledgeable.

Finally we see Manila's streets in the daylight. It is Sunday today so, again, traffic is not that bad. But we do see a lot (a lot!) of colorful jeepneys and other vehicles as well. One of them, a bike-taxi is referred to by our guide as poor man's taxi. It's cheaper than the regular taxi, but because it offers door-to-door transportation it's more expensive than the jeepney fare.

Jeepney on a Manila street

In traffic behind a jeepney on a Manila street

Bike taxi, Manila

Manila street

We drive through Manila's (and the whole country's) commercial center, the modern district of Makati. It is where the Philippines' major corporations and most of the city's major hotels are located. All the tall office buildings and the fact that it seems quite empty on a Sunday remind me of downtown areas in the US. Really the only local flair seems to be the ever-present jeepneys.

Entering Makati, Manila

Jeepney in Makati, Manila

Makati, Manila

The Peninsula Hotel, Makati, Manila

The neighborhood was built on the site of a former airport and our guide points out how straight Ayala Avenue, on which we are traveling, is. Yes, it is the former runway of the airport.

Ayala Avenue, Makati, Manila

We pass at the edge of the Greenbelt Complex, a series of interconnected shopping malls. Shopping malls are a huge thing in Manila. They are everywhere, and strolling in them is apparently a popular past time of locals. I wonder if it is because they are air-conditioned.

Then we drive past the St. Luke Medical Center and our guide has a juicy story about a former politician (president?) being kept there under arrest, but my brain is getting a bit saturated with all the stories, so I am not really paying attention.

St. Luke Medical Center, Manila

We have arrived to the affluent-looking BGC (Bonifacio Global City) neighborhood, which seems to be teaming with expats. It's also teaming with construction sights, high-rises going up everywhere we look. A bunch of these high-rises have helipads, so my guess is that we are not in a poor neighborhood.

BGC (Bonifacio Global City), Manila

The reason for us coming to BGC is to visit the Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, a sprawling WWII cemetery for American soldiers. According to it's official brochure it is the largest cemetery site administered by the American Battle Monuments Commission. With it's 17,097 white marble headstones it's a breathtaking sight. Not even the high-rises popping up all around in the background can take away from the peacefulness of the place.

Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

Of course our guide is quick to point out that employees of the cemetery are paid by the US government and are paid much better than he is - does this guy ever stop talking about money? He also tells us that normally lawns like this do not exist here, and that it takes a lot of effort to maintain it. After this introduction I am quite relieved when he tells us that we should walk around on our own. It is very very hot, and we are soon drenched in sweat. But we take our time, it's the least we can do I suppose when visiting a place like this. All these tidy rows of headstones, one after the other, it really makes one appreciate the enormity of human loss in the war.

Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

The focal point of the grounds is the Memorial Court with a Chapel, surrounded by the Wall of the Missing. It contains 36,286 names of those missing in action, including 21 Medal of Honor recipients, who's names are written in gold. There are also 25 ten-foot-high mosaic maps showing important WWII campaigns in the Pacific.

The Memorial, Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

The Chapel, Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

The Chapel interior, Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

Mosaic map, Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

Wall of the Missing, Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

Manila American Cemetery and Memorial

It's back to the car to continue our sightseeing. We pass by the first ever gated community in the city. It's huge and has it's own polo club, golf club and churches. According to the guide, in addition to rich Filipinos, lots of diplomats live here as well, including the US ambassador. Not surprisingly all we see is the wall and gate. Which is also what we see when we pass by what we are told is the Sultan of Brunei's 20-bedroom house.

First ever gated community in Manila

The house of the Sultan of Brunei?, Manila

Then, it seems, we are back to the real Manila of jeepneys and crowded sidewalks. The guide insists on pointing out to my husband the best "girly bar" in town (called Firehouse?). He says my husband MUST come there one of these nights. Forget the fact that I am in the car too, listening to this. Now I have to answer my 9-year old's question: mom, what's a girly bar?

Luckily we soon switch to the more innocent topic of Manila's light rail system. He explains that there is no metro because frequent earthquakes and flooding from typhoons make it impractical.

Manila street

We pass one of Manila's mega-malls, the impressive SM Mall of Asia. It is the largest in the city. If I can believe the internet it has 410,000 square meters of floor space and more than 200,000 visitors a day. It houses an Olympic-sized ice rink and an Imax theatre (which our guide is quick to point out that he can't afford). In addition to the usual jeepneys, the roads around the mall are also full of bright yellow minibuses, providing transportation to the mall.

Approaching SM Mall of Asia , Manila

SM Mall of Asia , Manila

SM Mall of Asia buses, Manila

SM Mall of Asia , Manila

We are on the waterfront now, passing the huge Ferris wheel we saw yesterday. Then the new Parliament building, which, according to the guide is way too large for the actual size of the parliament.

Ferris wheel, Manila

Parliament building, Manila

We get our first glimpse of the C.C.P. (Cultural Center of the Philippines) Complex, the ambitious and often criticized project of Imelda Marcos. The first building we see is the Manila Film Centre, constructed in 1982 for an international film festival. The resentment toward all the outrageous spending and glitz is evident when the guide simply states: Imelda built it and a lot of people died building it.

Manila Film Centre

Nearby stands another C.C.P. Complex building, the modern Philippine International Convention Center.

Philippine International Convention Center, Manila

We make a quick stop outside the gates of another often criticized Marcos creation, the Coconut Palace, built as a luxurious guesthouse. It's supposed to be beautiful and according to my internet printouts it's a museum, so I was planning to visit. But the guide explains that currently it houses the vice president, so it is not open to the public. That's disappointing.

Coconut Palace, Manila

The guide is very excited to show us the Folk Arts Theater next door, where Muhammad Ali trained for the 1975 "Thrilla in Manila" against Joe Frazier. But the street is closed, so we don't see much of the building.

Folk Arts Theater, Manila

Lastly we pass the CCP Main Building (Tanghalang Pambansa), also referred to as Theatre of Performing Arts. There is a large fountain in the front, and the guide says locals know what's showing in the theater based on the fountain. Small fountain means small show, big fountain means big show. Today there is no fountain, so there is no show.

CCP Main Building (Tanghalang Pambansa), Manila

Now we are cruising on the pleasant Roxas Boulevard again, passing the huge American Embassy on the way. The guide thinks it's the largest in the world, though the Internet thinks the largest is the one in Baghdad. Doesn't matter. It's big.

Roxas Boulevard, Manila

We drive by Rizal Park, Manila's heart, also called Luneta by the locals. It's too hot to explore all 60 hectares of lawns, gardens and monuments, so we just make a quick picture stop in front of the Rizal Monument. The monument, and in fact the entire park are dedicated to the Philippine national hero Dr Jose Rizal, who was executed nearby for inciting revolution against the Spanish colonizers.

Rizal Monument, Rizal Park, Manila

Just across the street from the Rizal Monument is the 0-km post, from where all distances in the Philippines are measured.

0-km post, Manila

We finally make our way to Intramuros, Manila's 16th century Old Town. The entire area of 64 hectares was once surrounded by a high wall (hence the name Intramuros = within the walls). According to our guide there was also a moat but, fearing mosquitoes, the Americans drained it. Today it seems to serve as a golf course. The architecture in this area is decidedly Spanish and it's very charming. It really is a shame that so much of the old town was destroyed during the WWII Battle of Manila, but at least we can get a glimpse of how pretty Manila must have been. A lot of the buildings are in disrepair, but the place is interesting nonetheless.

Entering Intramuros, Manila

We pass through Plaza de Roma, once a bloody bullring, now dominated by the impressive Manila Cathedral. As the original was destroyed during WWII this is a 1951 replacement. It is closed for renovations during our visit, so we drive on.

Manila Cathedral, Intramuros

Nearby there is a little plaza where a traditional house and farmhouse have been erected, probably for the benefit of tourists like us.

Traditional house in the Philippines, Intramuros, Manila

Traditional farmhouse, Intramuros, Manila

Intramuros is not simply a tourist attraction. People actually live here and time to time we can glimpse into their lives as we pass by. We see young men playing basketball, a hugely popular sport here. The guide laughingly points out that it doesn't make much sense for the usually short Filipinos to love basketball so much, but they do. While we don't see the other popular pastime of cockfighting (we don't want to see it), we do pass a number of cages where the birds are kept between fights. They keep them on the streets so that they would be used to the noise.

Intramuros street, Manila

Basketball match on an Intramuros street, Manila

Cocks held in cages, Intramuros, Manila

The first time we actually get out of the car in Intramuros is in front of the 16th century San Agustin Church, the oldest stone church in the Philippines. It is very popular for weddings, according to our guide there is a 1 year waiting period for people wanting to be married here. In fact there is a wedding going on right now, so we only get to peak inside from the door.

San Agustin Church, Intramuros, Manila

Interror of San Agustin Church, Intramuros, Manila

San Agustin Church, Intramuros, Manila

The church is surrounded by pretty Spanish-style buildings. Even the guards' uniforms seem to evoke the Spanish period.

Intramuros, Manila

Guard, Intramuros, Manila

After a bit of driving we climb the old walls where we get a beautiful view of the city.

City walls, Intramuros, Manila

On the city walls, Intramuros, Manila

View from the city walls, Intramuros, Manila

Back to the car and we pass by the ruins of a WWII women's prison. The guide is convinced it is haunted and that the screams of the women can be clearly heard at midnight. Yet another story to occupy my 9-year old daughter's mind.

Haunted building, Intramuros, Manila

Next stop is the 16th century Fort Santiago, once a Spanish military fort, alternately used during WWII by both the Americans and the Japanese. It is now dedicated to the memory of Dr Jose Rizal who was imprisoned here before his execution.

Our tour description clearly states that the entrance fee is included, but the guide is adamant that it is not, even when I show it to him in writing. What can we do? We want to see the fort so we pay. But I am not happy.

The fort's grounds are pretty and well maintained. A nice place to stroll around, except for the very strong dead fish smell emanating either from the moat or from the nearby river.

Fort Santiago, Manila

Bridal photo-shoot in front of Fort Santiago, Manila

Moat of Fort Santiago, Manila

Statue of President Quezon and General McArthur, Fort Santiago, Manila

Fort Santiago, Manila

Baluarte de Santa Barbara, Fort Santiago, Manila

Fort Santiago, Manila

The Dungeons, Fort Santiago, Manila

Memorial for 600 victims of WWII who died in Fort Santiago, Manila

Guard, Fort Santiago, Manila

Old ammunition, Fort Santiago, Manila

Much of the fort is dedicated to the imprisonment of Dr Jose Rizal here. There is of course a statue, but also a symbolic prison cell with his likeness, the starting point of the Last Walk to Martyrdom, Rizal's walk to the site of his execution. Today this path is marked with Rizal's shoe-prints embedded in the pavement.

Rizal's statue, Fort Santiago, Manila

Rizal before his execution, Fort Santiago, Manila

Rizal's shoe prints on the pavement (Last Walk to Martyrdom), Fort Santiago, Manila

There is also a museum dedicated to this national hero, the Rizal Shrine. It houses his memorabilia and a recreation of his cell (because of bad light conditions I don't have a picture of the cell).

Interior of the Rizal Shrine, Fort Santiago, Manila

Rizal Shrine, Fort Santiago, Manila

From the fort there is a nice view of the Binondo District across the river. Binondo is Manila's 400-year old Chinatown, perhaps the oldest Chinatown in the world, but from this vantage point it looks anything but old.

View of Binondo District from Fort Santiago, Manila

Back to the car and back to the hotel just in time to watch the famous sunset over Manila Bay from the business lounge on the 10th floor.

Manila street

Manila street with jeepneys

Sunset over Manila Bay

We are too tired to go out for dinner but I would like to try some local food, so the best option seems to be the buffet dinner on the hotel's third floor. It's quite expensive and I must say that the food (except perhaps the desserts) is not worth the price. The ambiance is not worth the price either, as it is loud like a busy train station. The place seems to be very popular with locals, especially in bigger groups (family celebrations perhaps?) - hence the noise. We seem to be the only foreigners this evening, which I would normally consider a good sign, as the locals always know better where to go for good food. But this time I am not impressed.

What does impress me is the friendliness of the service, especially a young man, who I assume is the manager. I want to try the famous local drink/dessert of halo-halo, but I am baffled by all the ingredients on the buffet's halo-halo table. So I ask this young man for a recommendation on which ingredients should I mix. His answer: all of them. When he sees the shock on my face he reassures me that all of these flavors complement each other very well, then proceeds to load up my glass with coconuts (two different types), beans, three different types of jellos, and who knows what else. On top of it goes crushed ice, then some ube (purple yam) jelly, ube ice cream, and a good dose of (evaporated?) milk. He tops it all off with some crunchies and a a generous piece of leche flan. I am quite horrified by the sugar content of all of this, so when he offers to to add some sugar syrup I can't help but laugh: no, thank you, I think it will be sweet enough.

Halo-halo ingredients, Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila

I am very (very!) curious to taste this concoction. At first it tastes too milky, but once I properly mix it I find it very pleasant. And by the time I get about halfway through I am addicted. He was right, the flavors do go well together!

Halo-halo, Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila

Day 3:

Today we are heading out of Manila, to our relief with a different, less overbearing guide. It's Monday morning and the traffic is worse than yesterday, but still not as terrible as I expected. According to the guide this is because it's school vacation.

Manila street

Jollibee, Filipino fast food chain

We drive about 10 km (6.2 miles) to Las Pinas City, home of the famous Bamboo Organ. The streets of the city are decorated for a fiesta, as is the lovely St. Joseph Parish Church, which houses the organ.

Las Pinas City street

St. Joseph Parish Church - home of the bamboo organ, Las Pinas City

The main attraction here is of course the early 19th century Bamboo Organ, the only one of it's kind in the world. According to the official brochure 902 of it's 1,031 pipes are made of bamboo. It took the Spanish missionary Fr. Diego Cera 8 years to build it. After a typhoon and earthquake damaged it, it was restored in the 70's in Germany.

Bamboo organ of Las Pinas City

Next door is the Antillan House, a former Spanish Convento, which now houses a small museum dedicated to the history of the church and the organ. We get a guided tour of the museum, which displays, among other things, the original keyboard of the organ and the church's original bell (given, if I remember correctly, by Spanish queen Isabella). It surprises me that there doesn't seem to be a no-touch policy in this museum.

Antillan House, Las Pinas City

The bamboo organ's original keyboard, Antillan House, Las Pinas City

The original bell of St. Joseph Parish Church, Antillan House, Las Pinas City

From the Antillan House we walk upstairs, to get a better view of the organ itself. On the way we pass a display of posters publicizing the annual International Bamboo Organ Festival.

Stairs leading from Antillan House to bamboo organ, Las Pinas City

Display of International Bamboo Organ Festival posters, Antillan House, Las Pinas City

We get treated to a little concert by one of the organ playing instructors here. The bamboo organ really does sound beautiful.

Instructor playing the bamboo organ of Las Pinas City

Next we are visiting the factory of the original jeepney-maker, Sarao. Jeepneys are the most popular and cheapest means of public transportation in the Philippines. They are simply EVERYWHERE. They were originally made from converted jeeps left behind by Americans after WWII. Today they are mostly made from surplus parts from Japan. Some of them are truly outrageously ornate, others are simply fun to look at.

Jeepney

A Hello Kitty jeepney

According to our guide the name jeepney is the combination of "jeep" and "honey" (I forgot why honey, but I am sure he had a story to go with it). According to wikipedia the jeepney name is the combination of "jeep" and "jitney", which makes more sense to me.

I must say, they don't seem like the most comfortable transportation to me. Passengers are crowded onto two parallel benches in the back, sometimes even hanging off the back. Our guide yesterday explained that hanging onto the jeepney was a good way of avoiding paying the fare when he was a student. Just hang on, then as soon as the jeepney stops jump off and run as fast as you can.

A Top Gun jeepney

These free rides are not the main threat to the jeepney industry however. Today they are facing competition from more comfortable, air-conditioned modes of transport. So, as iconic as the jeepney is, many manufacturers are going out of business. Those who remain, like Sarao, now produce custom made pieces, as mass production is not profitable anymore.

Sarao jeepney factory

Interior of a jeepney, Sarao jeepney factory

Making of jeepney benches, Sarao jeepney factory

Coconut-fibre (?) filling of jeepney benches, Sarao jeepney factory

The original Sarao jeepney, Sarao jeepney factory

Model of the American jeeps from which jeepneys were made, Sarao jeepney factory

One of the places I wanted to see in Manila but can't due to lack of time is the Chinese Cemetery. I have read that the mausoleums there are outrageous, some with crystal chandeliers, with air conditioning, kitchens and toilets. On the road toward Tagaytay the guide points out a cemetery just like that. I can't believe my eyes. I would have thought that this was another of the nice gated communities (the type built for the living, not the dead), with the "villas" clearly visible behind the fence. But it's not. It's a cemetery for the wealthy. What makes this luxury even more "in your face" is the contrast with the living conditions and poverty just across the road.

Cemetery for the wealthy, on the way to Tagaytay

We are driving to Tagaytay, about 60 km (37 miles) Southwest of Manila. It is not exactly a "drive through a picturesque countryside of coconut and pineapple plantations", as it is advertised. The population is dense and it seems pretty urbanized here. So I snooze.

Halo-Halo advertisement, on the road from Manila to Tagaytay

The 671 m (2,200 feet) high Tagaytay Ridge itself seems quite built up as well with hotels, restaurants and vacation houses. There is so much construction going on everywhere, just like in Manila. The guide explains that not long ago this was a quiet little place, but has become a very popular get-away place for Manilans over the years. In fact he is grateful we didn't come during the weekend, as traffic would be horrendous.

Tagaytay

We head to a restaurant called Josephine, with a beautiful view of Taal Lake and Taal Volcano.The outside terrace, though open, is air conditioned, which is very nice, as it is very hot today. We get a table on the edge with a beautiful view of the lake. It is a bit hazy, but apparently it could be much worse, as often the haze covers the view completely. According to our guide Taal Volcano is active about once a year, prompting evacuations time to time. Yes, the little island is inhabited, in fact we can see the orange/pink roof of the school building from our lookout point. We could have trekked to the island, or ridden horses on it, but it's way too hot for us. So we just enjoy the view from the breezy terrace of the restaurant.

View of Taal Lake from Tagaytay Ridge

View of Taal Lake and Taal Volcano from Tagaytay Ridge

Flowers, Josephine restaurant, Tagaytay

Birds, Josephine restaurant, Tagaytay

The restaurant is so large and so touristy that I didn't expect very good food, but I am pleasantly surprised.For lunch we try the local specialty of chicken adobo, a chicken (or pork) stew made with vinegar and soy sauce. We all love it so much that when we arrive home I download the recipe from the internet. It seems simple enough to make.

Chicken Adobo, Josephine restaurant, Tagaytay

The road back to Manila is lined with colorful fruit and flower stalls, and lots and lots of places selling wooden furniture. We also pass a bizarre structure, which at first looks like a large modern building, but is actually just a facade. The guide explains that it was erected to cover the unsightly old marketplace from the main road.

Fruit stall on the road from Tagaytay to Manila

Fake building on the road from Tagaytay to Manila

We make a quick stop to look at the surrounding pineapple plantations. The plantations are small, urbanization visibly creeping in everywhere. Our guide seems genuinely disappointed that we are not more surprised by the fact that pineapples grow on the ground. He goes into a lengthy explanation about how most European tourists assume that they grow on trees, and how they are very happy when he shows them the pineapple plants. I feel guilty about not looking more appreciative of his efforts but the matter of fact is we all saw plenty of pineapples already, mostly on the huge plantations of Oahu. But I try to look as interested as I can.

The pineapples grown here are small, not suitable for export, so are used mainly for local consumption. As are the little bananas called senoritas.

Pineapple plantations, road from Tagaytay to Manila

Pineapple transport, road from Tagaytay to Manila

The local specialty here is buko pie, the traditional Filipino coconut cream pie. There are plenty of stores selling it along the road and I am contemplating getting one. Unfortunately I am the only one in the family who likes coconut, so I give up on the idea.

Buko pie shop, road from Tagaytay to Manila

Finally exhaustion and jetlag kick in and I crash. I only wake up in front of our hotel.

The hotel is doing a fire drill today, people being carried on stretchers, water shooting out of the building, fire trucks and ambulances coming and going. Luckily hotel guests are not part of the drill, so we can watch all this from the comfort of the air-conditioned lounge, while drinking tea. But we feel bad for the employees who are made to evacuate and stand on the hot sidewalk for a while.

Then it's another beautiful sunset over Manila Bay.

Sunset over Manila Bay

Day 4:

It's a rest day. Traffic looks worse from the window, luckily we are not going anywhere. We spend the day by the hotel pool and packing.

At 7 pm we set out for the airport. My husband has warned me that the hotel is not located in the best part of Manila, and that there might be some seedy activity going on in our vicinity, which was the reason why we didn't venture out in the evenings much (Manila is not exactly crime-free). But until now I have seen no sign of any of this. Now, as soon as we leave the hotel, we see a whole group of scantily clad ladies on a terrace just across the road. My 9-year old daughter is of course curious: who are those ladies and why are they dressed like that? The only answer I can quickly come up with is: they are in a show and those are their costumes. Luckily she doesn't ask what kind of show that would be.

We again drive the beautifully lit Roxas Boulevard, see the colorfully lit up Ferris wheel and globe in front of SM Asia Mall.

I haven't gotten any souvenir for myself yet and on the airport a handbag catches my eye. Metallic bags are all the rage in Paris right now, and this silver colored one fits the bill. It is made of recycled shampoo foil sachets by urban poor women in Manila. In addition to liking how the bag looks I also approve of the recycling aspect of this. It will be a good reminder of the biggest recycling project I ever saw - the jeepneys. The luxuriously finished, fashionable bag made by poor women will also remind me of the bizarre mixture that is Manila - poverty and luxury, tradition and modernity alternating on each step.

Handbags made of recycled shampoo foil sachets, bough at Manila airport

Itchy Feet - Welcome!

Coming soon

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Manila