Itchy Feet - Welcome!: New Caledonia

Date: August 2012

Day 1:

New Caledonia lies in the Pacific Ocean, and, though officially a French Oversees Territory (TOM) with a special status, it is some 21 hours of flying time from our home in France. It's 10 pm and we have just arrived from Osaka, landing on New Caledonia's main island, Grande Terre. At 400 km (249 miles) long and 50 km (31 miles) wide, after Papua New Guinea and New Zealand, it is the third largest island in the Pacific.

With it's year-round pleasant semi-tropical climate, New Caledonia could be called "the land of eternal spring". July and August are the coldest months, and the fresh cool air hits us as soon as we get off the plane. After the terribly hot and muggy days in Japan it feels like we can breathe again. The airport looks new and immigration is friendly, which is always nice when arriving after a long flight.

By the time we drive through the capital Noumea, on our way to our hotel, it's 11 pm. It looks so clean, prosperous and .... dead. We drive almost through the entire town without seeing anyone. There are some cars on the roads, but not one single pedestrian. It's a bit spooky. At the same time the way the city looks surprises me. My (perhaps ignorant) Europe-centric mind considers New Caledonia such a far away, almost end-of-the-world place. I guess I expected it to be much more "backwards". Well, I was mistaken. This looks like a a developed, prosperous island.

We arrive to our hotel, Le Meridien, at the tip of Pointe Magnin. The hotel is beautiful and ... dead. We only see two other guests. Where is everybody?

It's late, we are exhausted, so it's straight to bed.

Le Meridien Hotel. Noumea, New Caledonia

Day 2:

We are still tired from traveling and still jet-lagged, so it's a late start today. After breakfast we stroll around the resort, then we watch our 8 year old daughter play on the beach. It's too cold to go in the water, which we couldn't do anyway, according to the water pollution sign posted on the beach. It's OK. We knew we were coming in the cold season and this kind of weather is much better for sightseeing.

Beach at Le Meridien Noumea, New Caledonia

The hotel doesn't seem empty anymore, there are many other tourists, mostly French and Japanese. We are told that the hotel (and New Caledonia in general) is a popular venue for Japanese weddings.

Grounds of Le Meridien Hotel. Noumea, New Caledonia

While my family rests I visit the hotel's fitness center. Yes, it's only the beginning of our island hopping, and I have decided that this will be the trip when, for the first time, I do NOT gain weight from eating restaurant food three times a day. I can almost hear my fat cells laughing: "Resistance is futile".

Late lunch at La Fare, the hotel restaurant by the beach. I have a salad with grilled shrimp and I must say, it's the best grilled shrimp I ever head. There are so many birds around us! Our daughter is very happy feeding them.

Birds at Le Meridien Hotel. Noumea, New Caledonia

I ask about the miniature train (Le Petit Train), which is supposed to connect many of the local attractions, in the hope that we can get some sightseeing done without renting a car. But I am told that the train is not working, so car rental it is.

By the time they bring our car and we get our act together it's 5 pm. It's starting to rain, so there is no point driving up to the Ouen Toro lookout point as we planned. Instead we head straight to the capital, Noumea. It is a 150 year old cosmopolitan city with 100,000 inhabitants. Forty percent of New Caledonia's population lives in the city.

There is a walkable "historical circuit" here, marked with red bricks inserted into the pavement, covering all there is to see in the downtown area. But we decide not to follow it, rather just pick a couple of sights which interest us the most.

Our first stop is the gothic Cathedrale St. Joseph, built by convicts in the 19th century. We park across the street and take in the majestic view of the building. It's getting dark (it gets dark very early here, around 6 pm!), and the Cathedral looks beautiful in front of the dark backdrop.

St. Joseph Cathedral, Noumea, New Caledonia

I read somewhere that the main door is usually locked (we try, yes it is), so we circle the building, but the side doors are locked as well. The back door is open, but there seems to be some sort of meeting (or prayer?) in the small room in the back, so we don't dare to interrupt. We pause for a moment to admire the statue of Jeanne d'Arc at the side of the Cathedral, then work up the courage to ask the people in the back if it's possible to see the interior. Turns out that a mass is starting in about 5 minutes, but they are very nice and let us in anyway, for a quick look. It's fantastic to have the entire main nave for ourselves. It is dimly lit and has such a mystical feel this way. I wish we could stay longer, but we don't want to overstay our welcome.

Statue of Jeanne d'Arc, St. Joseph Cathedral, Noumea, New Caledonia

Interior of St. Joseph Cathedral, Noumea, New Caledonia

Our next stop is La Place de Cocotiers (Coconut Square), Noumea's main square. It's only a couple of blocks away from the Cathedral, so we could walk there, but finding a parking spot seems so easy (at least at this time of the day), that we decide to move the car with us wherever we go. We park close to the pretty, colonial-style Musee de la Ville, Noumea's old town hall, currently serving as a museum.

Musee de la Ville, Noumea, New Caledonia

La Place de Cocotiers (Coconut Square), is the heart of the city. It is a long rectangle made up of 4 smaller squares. The part closest to the waterfront is called Square Orly, and is closed for renovations during our visit. Then it's Place de la Marne, followed by Place Courbet, with the 19th century Celeste Fountain. And on the top is the oldest, Place Feillet, with the pretty music rotunda. It's completely dark by now and the place is empty, but, because I read that New Caledonia is very safe for travelers, it's not spooky. The rain is slowing down, so we take a pleasant stroll among the illuminated trees. The lights are changing colors, so the whole place has a magical feel.

Illuminated trees, La Place des Cocotiers, Noumea, New Caledonia

Fountain Celeste, La Place Courbet, La Place des Cocotiers, Noumea, New Caledonia

Music rotunda, La Place Feillet, La Place des Cocotiers, Noumea, New Caledonia

We drive out to the Nouville Peninsula, to check if the Maison des Artisans craft center is open. It isn't. Everything closes so early here! Then a quick photo stop by the US Memorial, inaugurated in 1992 in honor of the US forces stationed here during World War II. As far as war memorials go, this might be my favorite. I find it interesting, modern and pretty.

US Memorial, Noumea, New Caledonia

We try to find Mwa Ka, the 12 meter (39 feet) tall totem pole inaugurated in 2005 to commemorate the anniversary of New Caledonia's French colonization. The erection of the totem pole symbolizes the "end of the mourning period" over the colonization, turning the anniversary into a celebration of New Caledonia's identity. Unfortunately the totem pole is not lit, so, even though we know that it is somewhere around Musee de Nouvelle-Caledonie, it takes us a while to find it. When we finally do, all we see is it's outline against the dark sky. That was a waste of time.

By far the most beautiful and most lively areas around here are the two lovely bays on the outskirts of Noumea, Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons. It was raining when we drove by them in the afternoon, and now it's dark, so we didn't really get to appreciate their beauty yet. But we know that this is the place to come for food, with restaurants and bars lining the entire waterfront. Apparently Noumea has more than 150 restaurants, which I think is quite impressive for it's size. There is nothing exotic here, we might as well be on the waterfront somewhere in France. No wonder the tourist brochures tout Noumea as the "Taste of France in the South Pacific". The atmosphere is lively, plenty of people (maybe that's why the town is so empty in the evenings, everyone is here?), and there are endless dinner options. We pick Les 3 Brasseurs micro-brewery, a good choice even though neither of us has a beer. They have a large selection of "flammekueches", a sort of pizza made on dough resembling Lebanese bread. It's delicious.

Les 3 Brasseurs restaurant, Baie des Citrons, New Caledonia

Back in the hotel, we peak out our room window. Every evening the lawn is "tattooed" by light, the various designs explained on a nearby sign.

La Pelouse Tatouee (Tattooed Lawn) in the Meridien Hotel, New Caledonia

Day 3:

Lying in bed in the morning, listening to the rain pounding on the balcony. Not good. Isn't this supposed to be the dry season?

It's still pouring when we set out, driving to Parc Provincial de la Riviere Bleue (The Blue River Park). The drive to get there is very pretty. Not the tropical paradise sort of nature, but lush and picturesque anyway. The combination of red soil and green vegetation provides a beautiful color palette and, in nice weather the blue sky must add to the attractiveness as well. No blue sky today though, as you can probably tell from the grey tint of my pictures.

Driving to The Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

The quality of the roads seems very good, further destroying my preconceived image of New Caledonia as being some end-of-the-earth, underdeveloped place. Part of the road is a toll road, but at a fee of 100 CFP (less than 1 Euro), it seems very reasonable.

At the entrance of the park we stop by the ticket office. We pay the entrance fee and also the tickets for the little bus which will take us around. We can only drive into the park on our own until Pont Perignon, then we must switch to a 19-seater, driven by a local guide. I assume this is for safety reasons. The roads here are slippery and, on rainy days like today, some roads are closed altogether.

The Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

The Blue River Park is a 9,045 hectare natural forest reserve, created in 1980. It is on the banks of the Yate Lake and, given the beautiful scenery, it is easy to forget that this is a landscape dramatically altered by humans. The lake is artificial, basically a giant (4,000 ha) hydroelectric dam. The only reminders of this human intervention are the dead trees protruding from the water, which, strangely, just add to the beauty of the place.

The Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

Drowned trees, Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

After about 20 minutes we reach Pont Perignon, a small pedestrian-only wooden bridge, built in 1958. According to the sign it is 80 meters (262 feet) long, 12 meters (39 feet) high, and it crosses the arm of the Yate Lake which was originally the bed of the Riviere Blanch. There is also a sign which says that the maximum load is 10 people, which is not terribly reassuring, but the bridge seems to be in good shape.

Pont Perignon, Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

We leave our car in the small parking lot and cross on foot. On the other side of the bridge we board the small bus and set out to explore the rest of the park. While our very friendly guide welcomes us, a coffee can falls from the front passenger seat and rolls around on the floor of the bus. I ponder for a moment why would he have a can of coffee in the bus, but soon I forget about it and focus on the beautiful scenery instead.

The Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

In a couple of minutes the bus stops by the most popular photo spot in the park, La Foret Noyee, the "drowned forest". I have seen some breathtaking pictures of this place, but they were all taken on beautiful sunny days, with bright blue skies reflecting in the water. Today it's raining and grey, so my pictures are less than impressive.

The drowned forest, Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

The Blue River Park is home to a number of plants and animals endemic to New Caledonia, including their national bird, the Cagou (Rhynochetos jubatus). It is extremely endangered, partly because it only lays one egg per year.The Blue River Park has the biggest population of Cagous in New Caledonia. There is a lot of excitement when the driver spots one by the road. We get off the bus and quietly approach it, cameras clicking (luckily they don't fly). Now the purpose of the coffee can is revealed, as the guide pulls out a couple of well fed maggot-looking creatures from it. Images of the can rolling on the floor of the bus flash in front of my eyes. I am so glad the lid didn't open! Anyway, the Cagou seems to like these, and I start to think that the bird's appearance by the roadside wasn't such a miracle. If they are used to being fed by the guide, they are probably smart enough to approach the road every time they hear the bus coming. Doesn't matter, it's a magical moment anyway.

Cagou, Blue River Park, New Caledonia

Next stop is Grand Kaori, with the option of taking a 30 minute walk here and be picked up by the returning bus. As it is pouring again we opt for staying on the bus and complete the whole route. It's a beautiful ride and our guide even points out some Nepenthes, a carnivorous insect-eater also known as "pitcher-plant".

Nepenthes, Blue River Park, New Caledonia

The Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

After an hour and a half on the bus we are back at Pont Perignon. I am impressed to discover that the toilets here are very clean and even have toilet paper. I usually don't expect such luxury in a nature park (and, if it's even possible, my opinion of New Caledonia rises even higher).

The Blue River Park (Parc de la Riviere Bleue), New Caledonia

After exiting the Blue River Park we follow the Yate Lake for quite a while. This is when we realize how huge it really is. Then we turn south, toward Chutes de la Madeleine (Madeleine Falls). It is a botanical reserve with 168 plant species and an educational botanical path. But we don't feel like walking around in the rain, so we head straight for the main attraction, the waterfall lookout. It is neither the largest nor the most picturesque waterfall I have ever seen, but, with it's lush green surroundings and mountainous backdrop it's quite a breathtaking sight. Because of the rain we only stay a couple of minutes, enough time for my 8-year old to fall on some slippery rocks. She is OK, but her jacket is ruined, as the bright red mud is impossible to wash out.

Chutes de la Madeleine (Madeleine Falls), New Caledonia

On the way back to the car we pause for a moment by the Bush Fire Risk indicator at the entrance. It has been raining all day so, not surprisingly, it is showing a low risk today.

Bush fire risk indicator, Reserve de la Madeleine, New Caledonia

We continue driving south, toward Prony, through beautiful hilly terrain with curvy roads. We stop a couple of times to admire the amazing scenery.

Scenery around Prony, New Caledonia

So far we had no complaints about the quality of roads, but on this section we get a surprise. Most of the little bridges we have to cross are flooded. The water in the small rivers is simply at a higher level than the bridges, and it is flowing through them unobstructed. Crossing these is a bit unnerving at first, especially because we rented a tiny car, but we do get through all of them fine.

Flooded river crossing, New Caledonia

By the time we reach the town of Mont Dore (a former suburb of Noumea) it's 4 pm and we are starving. It was a big mistake not to pack a lunch as, until now, there was no place to stop for food. We replenish our energy at the local Quick, then try to find a craft store we heard about in neighboring Magenta. But we miss our turnoff and end up in Noumea instead. Just as well. The sun finally came out, so there are plenty of people out and about on the waterfront. Also, it's nice to finally see the two beautiful bays, Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons, in the daylight.

Baie des Citrons, Noumea, New Caledonia

Anse Vata, Noumea, New Caledonia

We decide to take advantage of the sudden weather change and finally check out the view from Mount Ouen Toro. The lookout, complete with two WWII cannons, is at the elevation of 128 meters (420 feet), or 132 meters (433 feet), depending on which website I believe. The sun is setting, and the faraway mountains bathing in the golden sunlight are absolutely magical. Unfortunately, we can also see a storm rolling in from the ocean, and by the time we head downhill it's pouring again.

Sunset view from Mount Ouen Toro, New Caledonia

Cannon and sunset view, Mount Ouen Toro, New Caledonia

Sunset view from Mount Ouen Toro, New Caledonia

Day 4:

Finally gorgeous weather! Blazing sunshine, blue sky....if I thought New Caledonia was beautiful even in the rain, now it takes my breath away.

We first head to "dz galerie" in Magenta, the handcraft store we couldn't find yesterday. From the outside it looks like someone's garage, so we hesitate for a moment before we go in. But once inside we are amazed by the huge selection of good quality handcrafts. The only problem is, most of them are not from New Caledonia. There seems to be something from all corners of Oceania and beyond, but only a couple of less attractive pieces of local art. We have a dilemma, there are things which we love, but why get them here? The answer is simple: shipping cost. New Caledonia is served by the French postal service, so we can send things relatively cheaply to our Paris home. I guess we will see in 3 months how it worked, as that is how long it's going to take for the shipment to arrive.

Drive from Pointe Magnin to Magenta, New Caledonia

The plan was to next visit Tjibaou Cultural Centre, which, according to Lonely Planet "should be at the top of your list of places to visit". Plus, with our hotel key, the entrance fee would be waved. But it's a national holiday today, so we were told that it might be closed. That is just fine with our daughter who was not too enthusiastic about going there in the first place. She has something else in mind.

We drive back toward Noumea, but the weather is so fantastic that we can't resist making a detour up Mount Ouen Toro again. And I am so glad we do. It is even more beautiful than yesterday!

View from Mount Ouen Toro, New Caledonia

The lovely weather and the national holiday mean that lots of people converge in the Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons area. For the first time, it takes us a while to find a parking spot. But it's worth it. On a sunny day like this the bays, with their sandy beaches, palm trees and turquoise water look absolutely perfect.

Anse Vata, Noumea, New Caledonia

The local aquarium, L'Aquarium des Lagons, is on a narrow peninsula between the two bays. It is home to many species found in New Caledonia waters and our daughter has her heart set on visiting it. We are not that keen, but let's face it, we will not be doing any snorkeling while we are here, so this is as close as we will get to seeing the beauty of the underwater world around the island. And what a world that is! New Caledonia has the largest lagoon in the world, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And, at 1,800 km (1,118 miles), it also has the second largest coral reef in the world (the first being the Great Barrier Reef). The aquarium, though not huge, is lovely. I can't wait to see many of the same creatures in the wild, when we snorkel around French Polynesia in a couple of days.

Lagoon Aquarium, Noumea, New Caledonia

Fish in the Lagoon Aquarium, Noumea, New Caledonia

Starfish in the Lagoon Aquarium, Noumea, New Caledonia

Fish in the Lagoon Aquarium, Noumea, New Caledonia

Black-tipped sharks in the Lagoon Aquarium, Noumea, New Caledonia

Fish in the Lagoon Aquarium, Noumea, New Caledonia

For lunch we stop at a creperie (yes, very French!) on Baie des Citrons. Excellent food, like everything we have eaten in New Caledonia (OK, let's not count the lunch in Quick). We are quite spoiled, in the culinary sense, by living in Paris, but Noumea can definitely satisfy our taste-buds.

We hang out a little on the waterfront, then it's back to the hotel to pack. We finally manage to buy stamps in the hotel souvenir shop (the whole island seemed to be out of stamps for the last 3 days!). We arranged for late checkout, so there is still time for a last drink at La Fare, enjoying the fantastic weather. We watch some kite surfers nearby and everything is just so perfect that I don't want to leave. Well, I guess our next stop, Tahiti, is not going to be too bad either.

Anse Vata, Noumea, New Caledonia

On the way to the airport we chat with the friendly taxi driver. Turns out that he is a former French policeman, enjoying his retirement here. I can't blame him. I could live here too! Nature is beautiful, people are friendly, weather is nice (well, mostly), food is excellent. All this makes New Caledonia a wonderful place to visit. But the positives go way beyond that. Modern infrastructure, what seems like a pretty high standard of living, good medical system, good quality tap water, and the list goes on. Yes, visiting is wonderful but living here can't be that bad either. I have been so unfair and so ignorant in thinking that I was coming to some underdeveloped island in the middle of nowhere.

If there is anything negative about this trip it's that we haven't spent a long enough time here. We only saw a small part of Grande Terre, and nothing of the other islands of New Caledonia. I feel a very strong urge to come back.

Itchy Feet - Welcome!

Coming soon

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

New Caledonia - Southern Grande Terre

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