A cold afternoon in Provins

Date: April 30th, 2013

To say that it has been unseasonably cold in Paris this spring is an understatement. It is Easter weekend, yet we are all dressed like we would be in January. So we ponder, what day-trip should we take today? The cold weather eliminates anything requiring much time outdoors, while our 8-month old Golden Retriever puppy eliminates anything requiring much time indoors.

We decide for a trip to Provins, a charming medieval town about an hour and a half drive from Paris. Provins is the former capital of the Counts of Champagne, an important fair town in medieval times. According to the official sightseeing map (which is the source of many of the facts in this post), it is one of the best preserved medieval towns in France. Many structures in it's Ville Haute (Upper Town) date back to the 12th and 13th centuries, and these are now included in UNESCO's World Heritage List.

In addition to it's medieval buildings and impressive ramparts, Provins is also known for it's roses, one of the town's symbols. The  Damascus rose was brought back from the crusades by Count Thibaud, the most famous of the Counts of Champagne. If we would have come in the correct season we could have admired these in the Rose Garden. Not today though.

Because of the puppy, we will have to skip other interesting sights as well. The Tithe Barn, a typical Provins house, the fascinating Underground Galleries, the 12th century General Hospital, and the famed Provins medieval equestrian and eagle shows all prohibit pets (I do appreciate that the official sightseeing map notes this, as it makes planning easier).

Paris is emptying out for the long holiday weekend, so, to minimize our chances of getting stuck in traffic, we set out quite late, at 11 am. After about an hour and a half we reach Provins. If there was any doubt in my mind whether this is a touristy place, there is no such doubt left after seeing the well equipped, modern visitor center with the large visitor parking lot. 

We pick up a free map and more or less take the route on which all recommended walking tours overlap. 

We enter the medieval town via Saint-Jean's Gate, which originally served as protection of the old road to Paris. From here there is a lovely view of the impressive 12th century ramparts (or 13th century, depending on which source you believe).

Saint-Jean's Gate, Provins

View of the ramparts from Saint-Jean's Gate, Provins

Saint-Jean's Gate, Provins

We walk down rue Saint Jean and rue Couverte, toward the central square Place du Chatel. We pass lovely medieval buildings along the way. We also pass the little sightseeing train, which we would normally gladly take (even the dog likes them), but we decide it's way to cold today. We will walk.

Rue Saint-Jean, Provins

Sightseeing train on Rue Saint-Jean, Provins

Rue Saint-Jean, Provins

Rue Saint-Jean, Provins

Rue  Couverte, Provins

Rue  Couverte, Provins

Rue  Couverte, Provins

Rue  Couverte, Provins

Place du Chatel is the heart of the medieval town. It is surrounded by lovely houses (most of them seem to be restaurants). On the square stands the 13th century Exchange Cross, which used to serve as venue of financial transactions and notice board.

Exchange Cross, Place du Chatel, Provins

We walk by the town's perhaps most recognizable landmark, the 12th century Caesar's Tower. It was built as a symbol of power of the Counts of Champagne, and it's uses over the centuries included watch tower, prison and bell tower. No pets are allowed inside, so we decide not to visit. But our 9-year old daughter is so disappointed that we agree to return after lunch.

Caesar's Tower. Provins 

Caesar's Tower. Provins

We continue on to a pleasant little square called Saint-Quariace. We alternate visiting the church of the same name, while one of us stays outside with the dog. The 12th century Saint-Quariace Collegiate Church was never completely finished, which perhaps explains the very simple (even by medieval standards) interior.

Saint-Quariace Collegiate Church, Provins

Interior of Saint-Quariace Collegiate Church, Provins

Behind the church we pass the former palace of the Counts of Champagne, which currently serves as a high school. Then we stroll along rue du Palais. This is where a lovely 12th century Romanesque building, Provins' oldest stone building, houses the Provins and Provins Area Museum. Obviously no pets are allowed in the museum, but the building is interesting to see ,even if only from the outside.

Provins Museum, Provins

On rue du Palais we pass a couple of lovely historical buildings and get a nice view of Caesar's Tower from a different angle, then we reach Place du Chatel again. On the square we run into one of my daughter's classmates and her family. Seems like we are not the only ones who thought this town would make a perfect outing for today.

Rue du Palais, Provins

View of Caesar's Tower from Rue du Palais, Provins

Rue du Palais, Provins

We are back to Place du Chatel with a purpose: to eat. There are a number of options to choose from and we decide for a charming creperie called Mammy Gateaux. They have a heated terrace, but with the dog they prefer to seat us inside. At first this surprises me, then I realize that inside is where all the families with small children are seated as well. I suppose this is where all the noise-makers and trouble-makers are sent, so that people on the terrace can enjoy their meal in peace. I don't mind. I have a bag full of treats and toys for the puppy, so that we can have a nice, relaxing lunch. The food is tasty and the service friendly, so this was a good choice.

Creperie Mammy Gateaux, Provins

After lunch my husband and daughter head up to the top of Caesar's Tower, while I volunteer to dog-sit on the grassy area at the foot of the tower. This might not be such a big sacrifice, considering the narrow, steep stairs I am spared of climbing. 

View from Caesar's Tower, Provins

View from Caesar's Tower, Provins

View of Saint-Quiriace square with Saint-Quiriace Collegiate Church from Caesar's Tower, Provins

View from Caesar's Tower, Provins

Interior of Caesar's Tower, Provins

Interior of Caesar's Tower, Provins

Interior of Caesar's Tower, Provins

Pigeon at Caesar's Tower, Provins

Interior of Caesar's Tower, Provins

Interior of Caesar's Tower, Provins

Steep staircase inside Caesar's Tower, Provins

We are heading back to the ramparts via rue de Jouy. Another lovely street. We even see a medieval knight, cape and all, though the effect is a bit spoiled by the fact that he is on his cell phone.

Rue de Jouy, Provins

Rue de Jouy, Provins

Rue de Jouy, Provins

We pass Caveau du Saint-Esprit (Vault of the Holy Spirit), all that remains of the 12th century Hospital of the Holy Ghost.

Caveau du Saint-Esprit (Vault of the Holy Spirit), Provins

When we reach the ramparts we consider climbing them at first, but then we decide against it. There are too many stairs and, while our puppy would be perfectly happy climbing up on them, she would be probably too scared on the way down. We don't want to risk it, she is now too heavy to be carried.

Ramparts by Jouy Gate, side facing the town, Provins

We exit via the 12th century Jouy Gate and stroll at the exterior of the ramparts. We get a magnificent view of the old walls. The deep moat surrounding them was apparently never filled with water. We also get to admire the pleasant countryside around us.

Jouy Gate, Provins

Ramparts and moat, Provins

Ramparts and moat, Provins

Ramparts and moat, Provins

Fields around Provins

Then, passing a cemetery with the sign Commonwealth War Grave, it's back to the visitor center, where our daughter enjoys the playground, while the rest of us are shivering in the freezing wind.

Cemetery with Commonwealth War Grave, Provins

We are back home in Paris by dinnertime.