Yap - Island of the Stone Money

Date: May 2013

Day 1:

After a bumpy 45-minute ride from Palau (not a good sign when the stewardesses look nervous) and a bit of a rough landing,  we arrive at the tiny airport on the Pacific island of Yap. Yap is the westernmost and most traditional of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM).  It is made up of many islands and atolls and is located between it's better known neighbors of Guam and Palau. It is quite small and, despite of being one of the world's best diving destinations with a fascinating traditional culture, it's off the beaten track. So much so that I can't even find it's timezone on my iPhone.

Airport, Yap

The hotel, the Yap Pacific Dive Resort, is in the capital of Colonia by Chamorro Bay, on Yap Proper. It is only about a 5 minute ride from the airport, which is just as well, because it's the middle of the night. By the time we get to bed it's 4 am.

We wake up at noon and get a better look at the hotel in the daylight. It's a pretty, colonial-style building, with beautifully landscaped grounds. There is of course some stone money incorporated into the landscape, but more about these later.

Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Statues and stone money, entrance of Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Terrace, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Grounds of Yap Pacific Dive Resort with stone money, Yap

Stone money, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

While the hotel itself is pretty, I am underwhelmed by the view from here. The natural beauty of the waterfront seems to be completely destroyed by a couple of unsightly buildings, even some factory-looking structure. Well, industry has to be located somewhere, even on the most picturesque of islands. I just wish it wouldn't be in front of my nose.

View from Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

View from Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

View of Yap Living History Museum from Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

View from Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

We have lunch on the outdoor terrace of the hotel restaurant, in the company of a lot of ants. I am having the grilled local fish (tuna?) with finadene sauce, which I got to like while on Palau.

The hotel is such an interesting mix of what you would expect from a high-priced establishment and what you would not. The building and grounds are elegant, the food very tasty and nicely presented. But there is such a laid back, almost homey atmosphere here. Staff is extremely nice, genuinely very friendly, at the same time not as professional and efficient as you would expect at a hotel like this. We noticed it last night during check-in, and the impression is reaffirmed today. But I don't mind. I would take niceness and friendliness over perfect service any day.

Anyway, who cares if I have to drink my water from the bottle because I am not given a glass with it? The only thing that bothers me a bit more is that I can't get an after-lunch coffee. It is Sunday today and I am told that the coffee is locked in the office, and they can't get to it until tomorrow morning. Oh well, I will just have to do without it.

Outdoor restaurant, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Grilled fish with finadene sauce, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

My husband has developed some serious back problems on this trip, so much so that he spent basically the entire time in bed on Palau. With the help of strong painkillers he managed to get through the short flight here, but we don't want to push our luck and declare today a rest day.

The hotel is up on a small hill, with no beach access, but it does have a pool, so that's where we spend the rest of the afternoon.  The air is nice and fresh, not too humid, with a bit of a breeze. Very pleasant. We haven't seen any other hotel guests yet, though some foreigners did stop by to use the pool. Where are all the guests? Perhaps everyone is out diving and we will see them tomorrow at breakfast.

Pool area, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Pool area, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Stone money next to cleaning products, poolside at Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

The hotel is supposed to have a second restaurant, on the top floor, with sweeping views over the water. But it has been rented out as office space to a Chinese project (more about it later), so the only option for dinner is the restaurant where we had lunch.

This time we head for the indoor section, which, for some reason is decorated like a European cafe (it is in fact called Viennese Cafe House). Indoor is of course a relative word as it has huge open windows with a lovely view on some tropical plants, so we feel like we are sitting in a garden. There are not too many ants this time, but plenty of lizards, which is normal for evenings in the tropics.

We were told that dinner is served "from 4 pm all the way to 9 pm", which sounds funny coming from Paris, where almost nobody eats before 8 pm. Luckily I am hungry enough to have a very nice vegetable coconut curry even this early. My 9 year old daughter is ecstatic to discover that the hotel has two resident cats. The baby, who my daughter names Snowball, is shy, but the black mommy cat (Midnight, according to my daughter) is super friendly. She tends to show up every time food arrives at the table, so she will provide endless entertainment to my child during our meals.

Indoor restaurant, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Daytime view from indoor restaurant, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Lizard, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Back in the room we discover that we have a visitor - a huge black spider, about 7 cm (2.8 inches) in diameter, whom we promptly nickname Midnight 2. Apparently, before modern meteorology, spiders used to be considered reliable predictors of storms on Yap. If they were seen running away from their nets that meant that a storm was about to hit. Of course this was quite a last minute warning, so today people prefer to rely on the weather service. We are told that Yap is usually lucky when it comes to storms, as they form relatively close to the island, so most of them haven't picked up much speed yet when they hit here. There are unlucky exceptions though, such as Supertyphoon Sudal in 2004, which damaged or destroyed 90% of structures on Yap.

I am not sure what weather does a spider in the room predict, I just know that my daughter and I are freaking out, so, even with his bad back, my husband is forced to go on a spider-hunt. He doesn't kill it, just chases it out of the room. Then we fill all holes in the walls with pieces of Kleenex. Let's hope it will not find it's way back to the room again!

Spider in our room, Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Day 2:

A downpour. Oh no! Maybe that's what the spider was trying to tell us? But then the rain stops and the sun shines brighter than ever.

Breakfast is included in our room rate, and I must say the portions are huge! The eggs are average but the pancakes are superb. We do have to change tables once during breakfast, as ants invaded the one we were sitting at. There are a couple of ants on every table, and we have learned to ignore them, but this was a true invasion.

I am surprised to see that there are no other guests at breakfast. Are we really the only ones in the entire hotel? And there is another surprise, a nice one: I misunderstood the coffee situation yesterday. Yes, I can have American style coffee with my breakfast. It is only the espresso which is locked in the office. The caffeine-addict in me is relieved. Before you think me too fancy for asking for an espresso on an island in the middle of the Pacific, let me just explain. The hotel website specifically says "Enjoy your espresso, Lungo or Macchiato with our house pastry!". Otherwise I would have never thought of asking for one.

Normally on a trip like this we would rent a car and drive around the island ourselves. We are not sure if my husband's back could handle the driving and I don't feel comfortable doing it, so we opt for a half-day guided cultural tour instead.

I find the tour quite expensive (though it's free for our 9-year old daughter), plus I don't like guided tours, so I am having mixed feelings about this. But it ends up being a great decision. Not just because I am convinced that we would have gotten lost on our own. Also because our guide Tamag is absolutely fantastic. He is very nice and very knowledgeable. He is also a good sport about having Brownie the travel bear with us during the entire tour.

Tamag, the guide, posing with Brownie the travel bear, Yap

We first pass the Yap Living History Museum, just behind the hotel. According to the Yap Visitors Bureau website there should be activities here like "reenactments, traditional dances, live arts...." etc., but it doesn't seem to be used during our visit. In fact I asked yesterday at the hotel if there was a traditional dancing show we could see, and they told me that the cultural center is closed and that it would only reopen for 6 people. Well, it's only three of us, so I guess no traditional dancing this time.

Across the street from the museum is a workshop where traditional canoes are built.

Yap Living History Museum, Yap

Traditional Yapese canoe building workshop, Yap

The island is beautifully green, with a lot of hibiscus planted along the road to add a splash of color. Tamag is something of an amateur botanist, and he proudly points out many different types of this plant.

Some of the drive is on paved roads, some on dirt roads, but even on the best surface Tamag drives extremely slowly. Then we notice that everyone drives very slowly here. So strange for us, used to Parisian traffic. But how nice.

On the road, Yap

A "Welcome to Yap" sign by the road, Yap

On the road, Yap

Strangely enough our tour starts at the old airport, which was abandoned in favor of the new one in the 1980's. We pass the overgrown runway and walk into the woods, where, according to Tamag, lies a surprise. But before we walk too far he warns us to always look under our feet. The ground is full of holes, made by land crabs (they are everywhere on Yap!), and apparently stepping in one of these could result in a painful injury.

Old airport runway, Yap

Forest by old airport, Yap

Land crab hole, Yap

The surprise Tamag promised us is the wreckage of a Continental Airlines plane, which crashed here while attempting landing in 1980. All passengers on board, including the president of Palau, survived. The crash investigation revealed that changing winds caused by the location of the runway were to blame, and that's why the airport was moved to the new location.

Continental Airlines wreckage, Yap

Continental Airlines wreckage, Yap

We walk a little further, and we come across another plane wreck, this one of a WWII Japanese plane. WWII-era plane wrecks seem to be an object of fascination here, and the website of the Missing Air Crew Project explains it well why. While most people probably never heard of Yap, and even less people heard of it as a player in WWII, the truth is that because of it's strategic location between the Philippines and Guam, the island of Yap was attacked almost daily between the summers of 1944 and 1945. Because there is so much WWII aircraft wreckage on and around the island, there are even special tours offered to see these.

WWII Japanese plane wreckage, Yap

WWII Japanese plane wreckage, Yap

The botanist in Tamag can't resist, and he points out a number of interesting plants in the forest. There is the one he calls "marriage plant", on which two separate leaves grow toward each other until they are joined into one leaf. Then there are the flowers from a tree, which are used as paintbrushes by the locals. And how about the "sensitive plant", which moves away and closes when you touch it. I have to admit, I am enjoying Tamag's plant stories even more than the stories of the plane wrecks.

"Marriage plant", Yap

"Paintbrush flower", Yap

"Sensitive plant", Yap

In the forest by the old airport, Yap

We set out to our next stop and by the roadside we see what seems like a gazillion land crabs. Tamag says that they are good for grilling, and that they come out en-masse during full moon. Can't imagine how that must be, as for me there are too many of them even now.

On the road, Yap

Land crab by the road, Yap

Land crab hole, Yap

We drive by a school and the guide explains that the island has public schools, with instruction in Yapese, and also English language private schools. But he is not satisfied with the level of schools on Yap. So, when his child turned 10, he was sent off to stay with Tamag's sister on Palau, where education is better. He will do the same when his younger child turns 10.

School building, Yap

One of the things which most fascinates me on Yap is that stone money, large stone cylinders quarried on Palau, is still a valid currency here. It has been used for centuries and, according to the Yap Visitor Bureau website, it is found nowhere else in the world.

Stone money , Yap

While some of this money is displayed directly in front of people's houses, most of it is stored in Stone Money Banks. We are visiting one of these next. Don't expect any sophisticated vaults and security guards here. These banks are simply pathways lined with stone money, neatly positioned next to one another. We can stroll among them and touch them, which is obviously a very different concept of a "bank" than what we are used to. When I ask Tamag if stone money ever gets stolen he just laughs: "They are too heavy for that. Plus where would you go with it? Everyone knows everyone here".

Stone money bank, Yap

Stone money bank, Yap

Most stone money is privately owned, but some belong to entire villages, as they were used as payment of taxes. These days taxes to the villages are paid by work instead, sort of like community service, or other contributions. For example, Tamag says, if he can't come to do the work because he is guiding tourists at that time, he can just drop off some food for the rest of the villagers. If someone refuses to do their share then they will be warned by the village chief and can even be expelled from the community. I must admit, I like this system.

Stone money bank, Yap

Stone money bank, Yap

Stone money bank, Yap

Stone money bank, Yap

The value of stone money doesn't come from the value of the stone itself. It is valued so highly because of the hazardous canoe journey one had to make to Palau and back to get it. Many people perished in the process, so large amounts of stone money could be find in the ocean between the two islands.

Stone money bank, Yap

Another factor which determines the stone money's value is age. The smaller, worse-looking ones are more valuable. Bigger and more symmetric ones are usually from the time of David Dean O'Keefe, an Irish-American sailor who shipwrecked on Yap in the 19th century. He later returned, bringing modern tools with him, which made the creation and transport of stone money easier, naturally pushing down it's value. So it's probably a good thing that Palau doesn't allow quarrying stone money anymore, as, with our 21st century tools, it's value would probably be zero by now.

Newer stone money, stone money bank, Yap

Older stone money, stone money bank, Yap

I make the faux-pas of asking Tamag what the actual value of one of these would be, let's say in US dollars. He just disapprovingly shakes his head and says "priceless". Then he explains that that is considered an impolite question on Yap (ooops!), as many people here think that stone money is like a person. It is passed from generation to generation, and would only be used for important things.

Everyday transactions are paid for by US Dollars, stone money is used only for special reasons. Tamag explains with this example: "Let's say my son beats up a chief and he gets the death penalty for it. I would use the stone money to bail him out and save his life".  OK, I think I am starting to understand.

Stone money bank, Yap

It is hard to imagine now that stone money, made of a form of crystalline calcite, used to be white and so shiny that it was impossible to look at it in the sun. Time has blackened them, and even the lightest ones are grey now. One of them in this bank has cracked, so Tamag is able to show us the inside. Sure enough, white and shiny. Now I can more easily see why this stone was worth the dangerous trip all the way to Palau. The money must have looked amazing, almost magically glittering in the sun, when it was new.

Interior of stone money, stone money bank, Yap

Yapese also use shell money (Yar) for important events like marriage proposals, and to pay for local medicine. But we don't see any shell money during our stay.

Behind the stone money bank is a large stone path (stone highway, as Tamag calls it), but we don't walk on it much, as there are plenty of coconut trees lining it. Without a helmet it's simply not safe. Falling coconuts seem to be the biggest danger on Yap, and Tamag always makes sure that we don't wonder under any of the trees.

Stone highway behind the stone money bank, Yap

Coconuts seem to be the only thing competing in numbers with land crabs, and as we continue driving we pass plenty of both.

Land crab, Yap

Coconuts, Yap

While on the road we get a fascinating glimpse into Yapese family-dynamics from Tamag's stories. This is how I understand it: One of the sons in the family is given the father's name, and this son is the chosen heir. When it comes to dividing the inheritance, this son decides which of his brothers gets what (how much stone money and how much land) based on how they treated their father. Sisters don't really inherit anything, as they marry into their husband's inheritance. But there is some land and some stone money set aside, in case the sisters return.

While it seems that sisters don't get much financially, they seem to have immense powers over their brother's wife and children. If I understand correctly, it is the sister who has the right to choose the name of her brother's newborn, and even to give his/her first haircut. The sister's children are somehow higher in hierarchy than the brother's children, as Tamag puts it: "the sisters' children get to boss around the brothers' children".

The brother's wife is not safe from her sister-in-law either. If a sister doesn't like the behavior of the brother's wife she can beat her up, and even chase her away. According to Tamag this still happens.

What did change however is the tradition of arranged marriage. For the generation of Tamag's parents marriage was still arranged, but for Tamag's generation this is not true anymore. Marrying someone from the same village is discouraged (though it does happen), for the simple reason that they are all related to each other. After marriage the wife moves to the husband's village, while on Palau for example it's the other way around.

Listening to the guide's stories, we are driving south now, past a huge number of little red crabs by the roadside (Tamag points out that those are too small to eat), then some picturesque mangrove trees.

Little red crabs by the roadside, Yap

Driving south, Yap

Mangrove trees, Yap

Mangrove roots, Yap

We reach the southernmost point of the island. There is not much to see per say, but it does seem like a lovely beach.

Southernmost point, Yap

Then we set out again, on what seems like a tour of a botanical garden, with Tamag pointing out species like a red hibiscus with a double flower, a purple wild orchid and an insect-eating plant which reminds me of the "pitcher plant" we saw on New Caledonia.

On the road, Yap

Red hibiscus with double flower, Yap

Purple wild orchid, Yap

Insect eating plant, Yap

We are heading for the highest point on the southern part of the island, with a lovely view. As dating in the villages is not allowed (except with the intent of marriage), this is a popular dating spot among local youth.

View of the airport from the lookout point, Yap

View from the lookout point, Yap

We drive on, passing a strange concrete structure on the way. Tamag explains that the Germans built it for cable communications way before WWII, but during the war the Americans mistook it for something important for the Japanese war effort and shot at it. We also pass a couple of school buses and my daughter is delighted to see that they are the same as in the US.

On the road, Yap

German cable communication structure, Yap

School buses, Yap

Our next stop is by the wreckage of the F6F-5 Hellcat flown by Ens. Joseph E. Cox in WWII, which was shot down over Yap. This memorial was erected for his and his colleagues memory by the Missing Air Crew Project.

WWII wreckage of F6F-5 Hellcat, Yap

Memorial to Ens. Joseph E. Cox, Yap

Tamag was quite horrified when he found out this morning that we didn't put on any insect repellent, so now he proposes to make a quick stop at the hotel, as it is on our way anyway. On the road there we pass a basketball court and he explains that it is a very popular sport here. Tamag plays too, in fact he was once elected MVP.

On the road, Yap

Basketball court, Yap

On the road, Yap

Red hibiscus, Yap

After a quick break we visit a meeting house ("Faluw"), a sort of "community center" where villagers gather for various activities. We are allowed to visit the interior, but we must take care not to step on the wooden beam on the floor which Tamag refers to as "pillow". There is not much to see inside, and I get tangled into a large spider web, so we don't linger for  long.

Meeting house, Yap

Interior of a meeting house with pillow and stone money, Yap

Meeting house, Yap

Here I also get to taste some tiny apples, only a couple centimeters (about an inch) long, which grow nearby. I think they are horribly sour, but yes, they do taste like (very sour) apples.

Tiny sour apples, Yap

Tiny sour apples, Yap

After more beautiful scenery and more stone money we reach the German Channel, separating us from the neighboring island.

Yap scenery

Yap scenery

Stone money, Yap

German Channel from the bridge, Yap

We cross the bridge to Tomil-Gagil Island, which includes Tamag's home region of Tomil. It's interesting how the landscape suddenly changes. The ground here is made up of red clay, which creates a beautiful contrast with the greenery. People in this region used to make money from the clay, producing pots from it. But with most Yapese preferring modern, store-bough pots now, that money source dried out.

Tomil, Yap

Tomil, Yap

Tamag points out the large sports complex where he plays basketball. It's new and modern, but the air-conditioning is not working, so people find it too hot to play in there.

Sports complex, Tomil, Yap

Orchids, Tomil, Yap

Tomil, Yap

School bus, Tomil, Yap

We have arrived to Tamag's native village, and we pass the modern-looking and very pink women's house. Women's houses are the places where mothers bring their daughters to learn "womanly" skills, such as cooking, planting and other female chores. Like so many other structures, the women's house in this village was destroyed by the typhoon, and, fearing future storms, people preferred to rebuild it from concrete.

Women's house, Tomil, Yap

On the road, Tomil, Yap

Pineapple plant, Tomil, Yap

On the road, Tomil, Yap

We make a brief stop to pick up the village chief, chief Tamag, also called chief Francis. Chiefs still wield real power on Yap, and every village has one. In addition to village chiefs there are also regional chiefs, and there are 3 main chiefs for Yap. Not many of them dress traditionally, but chief Francis does. He shows up wearing nothing but a colorful loincloth (thu'u), accessorized with a grass headdress and grass necklace. He is also wearing a necklace adorned with a whale tooth and two wild hog teeth.  I guess this must be the "Gaw", the most valuable money on the island, a necklace usually made of shells and whale teeth and reserved for chiefs only. There are no wild hogs on Yap, which makes this particular piece even more valuable.

The chief is not dressed like this for our benefit. Apparently he wears traditional clothes every day. On the other hand, we are told that his wife wears modern clothes, as does the majority of Yapese. And his son (the future chief) is studying on an honor-student scholarship in the USA, so things will probably be less traditional once he takes over.

Chief Tamag (Francis) with Brownie the travel bear, Yap

The first language of people here is Yapese, the second language is English. But the chief learned his English later in life, plus his hearing is apparently not as it used to be, so communication can be a bit of a challenge. His favorite phrase is "no problem", which he repeats often and always accompanied by a big smile. He is very nice and friendly. We asked our guide in advance if there are any special rules to follow when interacting with him, he is a chief after all, and we don't get to meet many of those in our lives. There are no rules, but we do go out of our way to show him as much respect as possible.

He is very proud to show us the village's men's house, the place where boys learn the "manly" jobs, such as fishing. That is the reason why the men's houses are always next to the water. The chief has a special reason to be proud of this particular structure. After the typhoon the men, like the women, preferred to rebuild from concrete, using modern techniques. But the chief convinced them otherwise, and they rebuilt it using the traditional methods.

Chief Tamag (Francis) in front of the men's house, Yap

Men's house, Yap

Normally women are not allowed into the men's house, but the chief can make an exception, and he does. So we can all visit the interior. Again, like in the meeting house, we must be careful not to step on the "pillow". There are fishing instruments in here, and the chief is happy to explain how they are used. There is also a traditional canoe and a fire place, where the catch can be cooked.

Men's house interior, Yap

View from men's house, Yap

Fish trap, men's house, Yap

Fish net, men's house, Yap

Fish trap, men's house, Yap

Chief Tamag (Francis) with a traditional canoe inside the men's house, Yap

Chief Tamag (Francis) demonstrating a traditional weapon, Yap

Betel nut chewing is extremely popular in this part of the world. I have been to a couple of countries already where bright red spit stains dot the sidewalks, people always seem to speak with their mouths full, and discolored teeth pinpoint the most ardent users. But I have never seen such a large portion of the population chewing on betel nut as here on Yap. Perhaps this is because this plant thrives here. In fact, according to Tamag, the country makes most of it's income from betel nut export.

The habit is so prevalent here that on our flight from Palau the stewardess announced that, in addition to smoking, betel nut chewing is prohibited during the flight. Never heard that announcement anywhere before.

While chief Francis seems to be generally in great health (Tamag claims that he is in his 70s, but he looks like he is in his 50s), his teeth have been almost completely blackened by this habit. Tamag's teeth are discolored too, though not as much as the chief's. So its no surprise that as soon as we step out from the men's house, they settle down for a bit of betel nut chewing.

I have been intrigued by this tradition for a long time, so I ask Tamag to explain what the ingredients are and how he prepares them. He breaks a betel nut in half, pours some lime powder in it (lime as in limestone, not the green lemon), then rolls this all in a pepper leaf. I am shocked to find out that there is no red ingredient in it, but apparently it turns bright red only once it has been chewed.

Betel nut and pepper leaf, Yap

Lime powder, betel nut and pepper leaf, Yap

Betel nut ready to be rolled, Yap

While I find this habit a bit disgusting, I can't help but be curious. So I am considering trying it, but Tamag dissuades me. He says that if I am not used to it then it could make me dizzy, so it's better to try it in the hotel, where I could lie down afterwards. He is right. I don't want to be sick in the car, and in this heat I would probably not react very well to anything dizzying. I guess he is worried that I will like it, because he also warns me not to try it more than 4 times, or I will become addicted.

So we just sit and watch the two Tamag's chew on their betel nuts, while they explain the traditional rules governing this habit. These rules are not respected anymore, but in the old days boys were allowed to start betel nut chewing as soon as they were able to climb a tree, regardless of age. Women were allowed to start only once they got married.

A modern twist on betel nut chewing is adding tobacco to the mix, but both our guide and the chief strongly disapprove of this practice. They blame it for the high incidence of mouth cancer here.

As a parting gift the chief gives me his grass necklace and to my husband his grass headdress. As our parting gift we purchase two little souvenirs made by his wife. While he and the guide are adamant that no purchase is necessary, we should only buy if we really want it, we feel that that's the least we can do. The chief is so very grateful that I almost feel a bit embarrassed. He was so generous with his time! While I am sure that he receives some sort of compensation from the tour, it's also obvious that he is doing this because he is proud of his culture and is genuinely happy when foreigners show interest in it.

On the way back we stop in the Manta Ray Bay Hotel to buy postcards, and this is where it sinks in how badly Yap's tourism is doing right now. The hotel seems just as empty as ours. The receptionist asks Tamag how many guests are in our hotel, and his answer confirms what I have been suspecting: we are the only ones. Tamag explains that there used to be 3 daytime flights per week to Yap. But now that they got reduced to just 2 nighttime flights most people don't bother stopping over, they go directly to Guam. I can't blame them. Even though the flights here are short, having them in the middle of the night makes them tiring. Which is a shame because Yap has so much to offer.

Manta Ray Bay Hotel, Yap

Manta Ray Bay Hotel, Yap

This flight change explains a strange thing I noticed. There seems to be no lack of tourist facilities and attractions on Yap, but it's as if they are in some sort of sleep mode. Like the brand new looking Yap Living History Museum, which doesn't seem to be very "living" these days. I wonder if all this investment was made when there were more tourists, and now everything is suspended in a "wait-mode" until things change for the better.

Apparently the only time each year when Yap is invaded by visitors is on March 1, Yap Day. On this day tourists flock to the island to watch locals dressed in traditional costumes, performing traditional dances and showcasing their fascinating culture in every way possible.

Currently the most contentious issue on the island is also related to tourism. The Chinese are planning to build a huge hotel here, complete with a golf course and casino, but they are encountering strong resistance from many locals. Tamag is against it, as is the waitress in the hotel. They are worried that the very essence of their way of life is threatened by this project, that it will destroy what is the most special about Yap. I totally agree. I have visited plenty of places where natural beauty and local culture are almost invisible, completely overshadowed by over-development and mass-tourism. I understand that something must be done to revitalize Yap's tourism industry, but I wish they would go the way of islands like Dominica, focusing on sustainability and eco-tourism instead of large resorts. We shall see. If the developers have their wish then Yap might be a very different place to visit in a couple of years.

Manta Ray Bay Hotel, Yap

Our tour was supposed to last 4 hours, but 5 and a half hours have passed by the time we return to our hotel. What a great day it was! Tamag is definitely my favorite guide of all times.

For late lunch we have some pretty good quesadillas - definitely better than the ones we can get in Paris. I ask about the espresso again and the answer is, again, that it is in the office. But this time I am also told that it's there because it's expired, but if that doesn't bother me then they can get it. Sure, why not. Expired espresso should be better than none. And it is my favorite Nespresso. I am surprised to see it here, as I am not exactly sure where would they buy the capsules on Yap. So the waiter explains that they got the machine and the capsules from a German guest.

Neither the waiter nor the receptionist know how to use the machine, so I make myself a cup. I love this laid back, family-like atmosphere. In how many good hotels would it be possible for a guest to make their own coffee, then show the staff how to clean the coffee machine?

According to the box the capsules expired 8 months ago, so I am not completely sure if I should be drinking it, but then I bravely go ahead. It's not as tasty as usual, but at least it's finally an espresso!

It's our 13th wedding anniversary today, and I was planning to surprise my husband with the hotel's King and Queen Dinner, "a private 5 course Tableau du Jour dinner in our relaxing tree terrace overlooking Chamorro Bay". But, with his bad back he barely got through the tour with the help of pain medications, so he is in no state to sit through a 5 course meal. It ends up being a good decision anyway, as the mosquitoes are really unbearable today. In fact we can't stand being outside at all, and spend the rest of the afternoon in the airconditioned room.

At 7:30 pm we head for dinner in the hotel restaurant. It's the same waiter who couldn't work the coffee machine, and I am starting to realize that he is not very experienced at this job. When I ask him what the catch of the day is he replies (completely seriously): fish. Well, I guess it could be worse. He could have said beef.

Then the usual waitress is back and she laughs about the coffee machine story (she knows how to use it). She chats with us about life on Yap, about her hobbies of volleyball and softball, and about the unwillingness of many young people in Colonia to dress traditionally for Yap Day. The upside of being the only guests is that we get to know the staff much better, which is wonderful.

Day 3:

We are up at 8 am.  It's another huge breakfast in the hotel, though we ask that they only give us pancakes this time, because the full portion with eggs is really too much. The Nespresso machine is functional, yeah! I can have my second cup of expired espresso.

My husband's back is hurting again, so he will spend the day in bed. But he insists that my daughter and I continue with our program. So we head to the dive center just down the hill from the hotel.

Yap is one of the world's best diving destinations (even has a recompression chamber), and that is why most people come here. In fact from the moment we stepped off  the plane everyone we met assumed that we are here to dive. We don't do diving, only snorkeling, and that's the plan for today. If we are lucky then with manta rays!

The staff at the Yap Pacific Dive Center is very friendly. They don't have child-size flippers, but the smallest adult size manages to stay on my daughter's feet, so I guess it's OK. I have been beating myself up for not getting an underwater camera before this trip, so I am thrilled when they ask if I would like to borrow theirs. All I have to do is plug into it my own memory card, and I am ready to go. How convenient!

Yap Pacific Dive Center, Yap

This is our first time on water in Yap, and the first couple of minutes are not that impressive. As I have already seen from the hotel, this area is industrial, not exactly tropical paradise-like. But in a short while we reach a much nicer scenery of rolling green hills and deep blue waters.

We also pass O'Keefe's Island, which was given to the 19th century American sailor I mentioned before. Almost all land on Yap is privately owned, and it's not possible for foreigners to own it. So the fact that O'Keefe was given this land is a sign of huge respect. Tamag explained yesterday that they respected him like a chief, and, as a bit of internet research reveals, Europeans considered him something of a king of the islands as well. In fact there is a Burt Lancaster movie called His Majesty O'Keefe, but based on it's description on Wikipedia it is probably more 1950's Hollywood than factual history.

On a boat leaving Yap Pacific Dive Resort. Yap

On a boat leaving Yap Pacific Dive Resort, Yap

Yap from the boat

Yap from the boat

We are heading to the other side of the island, and for that we must pass through the German Channel, the one over which we drove yesterday. With it's mangrove trees it's a picturesque place.

German Channel, Yap

German Channel with bridge, Yap

German Channel, Yap

Stone money by German Channel, Yap

We reach the open water on the other side, and get ready to hop into the water at the Manta Ray Channel. There are two divers on the boat, and one of them, Frank, will be coming into the water with us.

Manta Ray Channel, Yap

Frank with Brownie the travel bear, Yap

Yap is the world's foremost destination for seeing manta rays, in fact it has the first designated manta ray protection area in the western Pacific. We have seen some in the wild before on our previous trips to the Pacific, but we never swam with them. This should be exciting!

The water is deeper here than what I am used to for snorkeling, and the waves are higher too, so it's quite hard work. Especially for my daughter, she seems to be struggling to keep up. The water is pulling us out, so she has to work really hard against it. I am very glad now that we are wearing life vests. I keep grabbing her and pulling her, but I am starting to think that this was a bad idea. It doesn't help that I hate snorkeling in deep water. I am terrified of sharks, so looking down, not knowing what is lurking below me is frankly freaking me out.

Finally we reach a place which is still deep, but at least I can see the coral on the bottom. So I try to take some pictures, but I am struggling with the camera. Suddenly I can't tell at all when it's on and when it's off. I push the buttons a couple of times, then simply give up. I end up with only three pictures, but somehow also a bunch of strange little video clips, the sort you would take when you don't realize that you are filming. What a disaster!

Coral, Manta Ray Channel, Yap

I am starting to have serious doubts about this excursion. Manta rays can be huge, I think the largest ones can have a wing-span of 7 meters (23 feet). With my nerves already on edge, how am I going to react if a huge shadow suddenly appears under me?

I am a bit embarrassed to admit that I feel no disappointment, only relief, when Frank finally announces that there don't seem to be any manta rays here. The mating season is over, so we knew this could happen. I don't mind, I just can't wait to get back on the boat.

We rest a couple of minutes, and I get another explanation on how to use the camera. It seems very simple here on the boat, why can't I do it in the water?

The second part of the trip is supposed to be snorkeling over the shallow coral reef just on the other side of the boat. That's the sort which both my daughter and I love, but I have been so discouraged by the deep-water fiasco that I am not really in a snorkeling mood anymore. Of course I would be too embarrassed to let the two divers see how I am feeling, so I tell myself to get over it, and into the water we go.

I don't even have time to get a proper look at the reef when...oh no...an empty string dangling from my hand where the camera used to be attached. Technically it's not my fault, as it is one of the divers who tied it to my hand, but I still feel horrible. Frank just laughs, dives down, and retrieves the camera. What a relief!

At this point I am feeling more stressed than after a bad day at work, so I don't expect to enjoy myself much, but I am wrong. The dropped camera ends up being the last disaster of the day. We start snorkeling and, as if magically, all previous stress dissipates. The coral formations are amazing! It is the most colorful coral I have ever seen, bright yellow and blue and purple. And lots and lots of gorgeous fish. My daughter is in seventh heaven, swimming around, identifying fish from the waterproof card we bough yesterday at the Manta Ray Bay Hotel. And yes, I finally figure out the camera, and I take way too many pictures, until the battery gives out.

Coral, Yap

Coral, Yap

Coral, Yap

Frank points out some rare coral formations, then he suddenly picks up something, swims off with it, and drops it into the deep water. He explains that this creature (porcupine fish?) is harmful to the coral, so when divers spot one of them they remove it. They don't kill it, simply move it to deep water, so it would take some time before it crawls back on the coral.

Frank snorkeling over the coral reef, Yap

Coral, Yap

It is truly amazing here, the best snorkeling I have done in my life. We spend a long time in the water, and we wish we could stay even longer, but low tide is setting in, so we have to go. The water is getting so shallow that it is becoming difficult not to get scratched on the coral. Plus we have to head back before the water level in the German Channel gets too low.

Coral, Yap

Coral, Yap

Coral, Yap

Back on the boat it's banana bread for us, betel nut chewing (of course) for the two guys. Frank proudly announces that he also has coffee for me, as he heard in the hotel how much I like it. Well, that's slightly embarrassing, to be known all around Yap as the caffeine-addict lady. But I do appreciate his thoughtfulness very much. So, even though normally coffee is the last thing on my mind on a boat (it makes me sea-sick), considering he went into all this trouble for me I feel I have to have a cup.

We are going much slower on the way back, as the water is quite shallow by now, so we must keep within the marked channel.

Heading back toward the German Channel, Yap

Mangrove tree, Yap

Back in the dive center there is one more surprise awaiting us, a rescued baby turtle. It is about a year and a half old and is very cute and friendly. Ultimately it will grow quite huge and will need to be released, but not just yet. Frank says it's called FrankieJohnny, but only on days when Frank and John are the ones working in the center. Other divers probably call it differently.

Baby turtle, Yap Pacific Dive Center, Yap

Baby turtle, Yap Pacific Dive Center, Yap

After lunch (they have the best garlic bread here!) we relax in the room by watching an old, black and white Sherlock Holmes movie. The hotel has wifi, but for some reason no TV channels, and the TV only serves as a front for the video cassette player. There is a collection of movies by reception, and we have been watching some of these in the evenings. It's an interesting experience for our 9-year old, who is surprised to learn that there is such thing as rewinding.

After packing we have dinner in the hotel restaurant and say good bye to the cats.  Just before we leave the room the giant spider comes back to say good bye too. This time we leave it alone, just quickly close the suitcases so he wouldn't end up in one of them by accident. I don't think my nerves could take it if it would reappear in our next hotel.

Our flight to Guam leaves at 1:35 am, but for some reason check-in closes at midnight, so we have to leave the hotel at 11 pm. It will be a long wait at the tiny airport. Luckily it's not all boring. Security screening here means manual search of checked luggage. With much of that luggage being coolers with (frozen?) fish and other sea creatures, it' fun to watch. Every piece is carefully removed from the cooler, put in a large plastic container, one by one. Then, once the cooler is empty, the same process in reverse. So we get a good look at a bunch of various sea creatures. This is something I have never seen at other airports.

People watching is fun too. We finally see other tourists, about 10 of them. During our entire stay we only saw 5 foreigners, so this is a huge number. Then there is the old gentleman, waiting for someone to arrive, wearing nothing but a loin cloth. And the old lady, topless, which is the traditional way of dressing for Yapese women. I made sure not to wear shorts and short skirts during our stay here, as the Yap Visitors Bureau website makes clear that "Yapese culture requires women to cover their thighs". These are the things which make for such fascinating cultural differences. Skirts shorter than knee-length are considered too skimpy. Topless is fine.

Most locals who board the plane, even though dressed in modern clothes, are wearing grass and flower necklaces or headdresses. Some of these are quite elaborate. As I haven't seen many people wearing these around the island I wonder if they are given as good bye gifts, when one departs on a trip. They quickly fill the plane with a wonderful scent of flowers, which is a fitting end to to our visit.

Yap is probably the most authentically traditional place I have ever been to. Fascinating culture, amazing natural beauty and friendly people, what more could we ask for in a tourist destination? So if you are ever in the region please don't be discouraged by the nighttime flights. I strongly recommend a visit!